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Refinishing Solid Teak With Pure Tung Oil...

Refinishing Solid Teak With Pure Tung Oil

Being new to certain kinds of refinishing, taking on some solid teak tables created a little trepidation. The color of the wood is so rich you can not imagine they are not stained. Being solid wood, this was not a task to mess up on either. To add to it all, a natural finish was a requirement. After asking around abit and doing some research I felt there were so many methods, brands, and other questionable information I felt I needed to strike out on my own and take a chance by not really taking a chance, I wanted a rock solid choice. I had read that "teak oil" was not really an oil per say, or teak, but a name of a finish or product that could be made of anything anyone dreams up. With teak furniture, if you want to keep that amber glow you need to oil it from time to time. This means that you do not want to use something that might interfere with that like wax or some finishes.

"Pure tung oil is hard to find, natural and exotic..."


Saving Money With DIY Ducting For The Wood Shop...

Getting the collector setup and in place.

One of the bigger expenses with dust collectors that use over 4" ducting is the ducting itself. In fact, it can often cost more for the ducting than the dust collector. For the home shop, that can price many people right out of the market. In order to bring the price down to something you can afford you need to understand where the money goes and where you can save money.

For our examples we will use an 8" ducting system and a 3 HP Grizzly Cyclone dust collector. Like any large woodworking machine you put in the shop, a duct collector is an investment. For some the investment is in breathing cleaner air and saving their lungs and for others "time is money" and having a dust collector helps save time on cleaning up plus some machines do not perform well without dust collection.

Let's say our 3 HP example costs $1350.00 and has an 8" inlet (IN) for you to connect your ducting to. You will still need an 8" (main line) duct and all the parts than reduce that down to the size your machines need. To make those parts easier to think about let's divide them into three categories of UPPER, MIDDLE and LOWER. The UPPER is the 8" ducting or main line. This will include 8" fittings, ducting, blast gates, flex ducting/tubing or anything else that travels across the UPPER part of ducting making up the main line. Next is the MIDDLE and that includes any fittings, ducting, blast gates, tubing or anything else that makes up the drops. Then we have the LOWER and that includes the fittings, blast gates, tubing and all the other parts (usually 4") that go from the drops to the machines themselves.

THE UPPER: The parts required to build 8" metal ducting are quite expensive. For example, branches can cost over $100 each and a section of ducting 5 feet long can cost $40 with elbows and blast gates running $70-120 for elbows and $75 for a blast gate plus shipping and oversize shipping. Then there are all the clamps, and special fittings like machine adapters, nipples, and hangers which can also really add up. The UPPER is where the bulk of the money will go in ducting.

THE MIDDLE: The parts required to build 4-6" metal ducting drops are also quite expensive. For example, branches can cost over $80-95 each and a section of ducting 5 feet long can cost $25-30 with elbows and blast gates running $38-53 for elbows and $39-49 for a blast gate plus shipping and oversize shipping. Then there are all the clamps, and special fittings like nipples, floor sweeps and hangers which can also really add up. Even though these parts are cheaper than the 8" you need a lot of them. The MIDDLE is also where the bulk of the money will go in ducting.

THE LOWER: The parts required to build 4" ducting from the drops to the machines quite inexpensive. For example a branches can cost only $4-10 each and a section of ducting 20 feet long can cost $25-35 with elbows and blast gates running $4-8 for elbows and $5-15 for blast gate plus shipping. Then there are all the clamps, and special fittings like machine adapters and hangers which also really affordable. The LOWER is is quite affordable in terms of ducting especially if you standardize on 4", buy in bulk and shop sales. Even still, you end up with quite a pile of fittings if you have very many machines.

"We figured we saved $1300 to $2000!"


Woodmaster Planer, Molder, Rip Saw and Drum Sander...

Woodmaster Planer, Molder, Rip Saw and Drum Sander

In the smaller shop having one tool that can plane (surface) wood, drum sand, rip and make molding seems almost like something "to good to be true" yet the Woodmaster is a production machine that does these tasks with relative ease. The planer will require optional accessories to add some features.

"We like this tool for it's professional production capabilities"


Choosing A Dust Collector For The Home Shop

Getting the collector setup and in place.

A planer molder or any large dust producing wood shop tool needs some serious dust collection. There are two main levels of dust collection which are chip removal and fine dust removal. Chip removal is fairly easy because the chips tend to stay fairly close to where they are produced so modern dust collectors can suck them up as they are made. Fine dust however is much more challenging as it tends to spread fast and far like a gas and thus requires a huge amount of suction near the point that the dust is produced. The fine dust is the most dangerous dust for the lungs so proper dust collection is a must.

There are many many details involved in dust collection and many sites that talk about them. After sifting though so much of this we wanted to go straight to doing it correctly so that one does not have to spend a huge amount of time doing research. This article is for the smaller one to three car garage size shops rather than professional wood shops that have many tools all running at the same time. Use the information at your own risk however, because it is up to you to know what your doing when it comes to dust collection.

"Keeping the fine dust out of your lungs is one of the most important safety tasks in the shop."


A Cordless Lithium Drill Driver Hammer That Rocks!

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Choosing the right drill driver is a worthy challenge. We had received a Makita 18 volt drill driver as a gift. In the first few days of owning the drill the battery ran down (as expected) and we had to charge it. This time when the battery ran down however, the battery was stuck on the drill and would not come off. We had basically babied this drill and were so careful with it so there was no reason it should have gotten stuck but there was no way the battery was going to come off either. So we had to pick out the Best Cordless Lithium Drill Driver Hammer To Buy. We thought, "this should be fun!"
Wow, this was not easy. There are some pretty tough choices to make. We went around and round trying to decide.

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